Fencing guide

Common Fence Repairs: Leaning Posts, Broken Panels and Rotten Bases

How to fix the most common fence problems, from a leaning or snapped post to a broken panel, gate drop or rotten base, and when to replace instead.

By the Simple Fencing team4-minute read

Short answer: most fence problems start at a post. A leaning post with sound timber can be re-set. A post rotted at ground level can be saved with a concrete repair spur bolted alongside, or replaced. Broken panels and boards are straightforward swaps. Once more than about a third of the posts are failing, replacing the run is usually cheaper than chasing repairs every winter.

First, whose fence is it?

Before repairing a boundary fence, check who owns it. Title plans show general boundaries, and "T" marks only carry weight if your deeds refer to them. If it's your neighbour's fence, talk to them first. Emergency propping to stop a panel falling is sensible either way.

Problem 1: A leaning post (sound timber)

Cause: a shallow or loose footing, soft ground, or wind load.

Fix:

  1. Take the panels either side off, or unscrew them from the post.
  2. Dig around the footing and either break it out or dig deeper alongside.
  3. Pull the post upright, check it with a level on two faces and brace it.
  4. Re-set it in post mix, with gravel at the base for drainage.
  5. Re-fit the panels after the mix has set.

Fence-post straightening tools and repair spurs are available from merchants for posts that only need a nudge.

Problem 2: A post rotted or snapped at ground level

This is the classic failure. Treated posts are designed for about 15 years in the ground, often less in wet soil or where water sits.

Option A: concrete repair spur. A short concrete post is set in the ground right next to the old one and bolted through it. It's quick, cheap and ugly, but effective, and it avoids digging out the old footing.

Option B: replace the post. Remove the panels, cut the old post off, and either break out the old concrete or set the new post next to it. Use a UC4-treated post. Never put a cut end into the ground. If a post must be cut, cut the top and treat the cut end.

Option C: switch to concrete posts as you replace them. Slotted posts take standard panels.

Problem 3: A broken or blown-out panel

  • On concrete posts: lift the panel out of the slots and drop the new one in. It's a ten-minute job if the panel is a standard size.
  • On timber posts: unscrew the brackets or clips, remove the old panel, and fit the new one with fresh brackets. Measure the gap first, because older panels may not match current sizes.
  • Closeboard: replace individual feather-edge boards or arris rails. Arris-rail repair brackets fix a broken rail without dismantling the bay.

Problem 4: A rotten base or gravel board

Soil banked against the fence keeps the bottom wet. Clear it back. Replace rotten timber gravel boards, ideally with concrete ones, and leave a small gap between the boards and the soil.

Problem 5: A dropped or sticking gate

  • Check the gate post first. A leaning hinge post is the usual cause, and needs re-setting.
  • Tighten or replace hinge screws, using longer screws into fresh timber.
  • Add a diagonal brace (running from the bottom hinge side up to the latch side) to stop timber gates sagging.
  • On adjustable hinges, re-tension after the post has settled.

Problem 6: Algae, green stains and greying

This isn't structural. Brush down timber and treat it. Wash PVC and composite with warm soapy water and a soft brush. Keep plants and ivy trimmed back for airflow.

Repairs on non-timber fences

  • Steel railings and mesh: treat rust spots early (wire brush, zinc-rich primer, topcoat). Replace missing clips and clamps. Bent bars may need a fabricator.
  • Composite: replace damaged boards from the same system. New boards may not match weathered ones at first.
  • PVC: cracked rails or pickets are replaced, not patched. Systems are modular, so a damaged section can usually be swapped. Keep your order details. If you suspect a manufacturing defect, our warranty requires written notice within 30 days of discovery, with photos and proof of purchase. Impact and storm damage aren't covered.

When to replace instead of repair

Replace the run if:

  • More than about a third of the posts are rotten or loose
  • You're repairing after every winter
  • Panels are brittle and splitting along their length
  • You want a different height, style or material anyway

At that point, think about what failed. If it was timber posts in wet ground, concrete posts or a non-timber system will avoid a repeat. Our guide to genuinely low-maintenance fencing compares the options.

If you're replacing with PVC, the Complete Fence Planner lists every part for your new run.

FAQ

Can a leaning fence be fixed without replacing it?

Often, yes. If the post is sound, re-set it. If it's rotted at ground level, a concrete repair spur or a new post fixes it.

How much does fence repair cost?

It varies widely by job and region. A single post or panel is usually a small job, and many fencers have a minimum call-out charge. Get a quote with the work itemised.

Who pays to repair a shared fence?

The owner, according to the deeds. Neighbours often agree to share costs.

Pricing a PVC fence?

The Complete Fence Planner works out panels, posts, caps and gates for your run and shows the total including VAT. Buying in volume for a site, school or development? The trade page gets you an itemised quote the same working day.

Open the Fence Planner Trade and volume quotes

Or call 03333 222 050, Mon–Fri 8–5, Sat 8–12.